librarian2003 (librarian2003) wrote in weagardening, @ 2010-11-07 10:43:00 |
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Current mood: | cranky |
Entry tags: | centifolia roses, moss roses, november garden |
Week 6
Our topics for this week are Centifolia Roses and Moss Roses, as our Plant of the Week, and The Garden in November.
Images are here of the Centifolia Roses and Moss Roses
The handouts are here:
GARDENING FOR PLEASURE
Plant of the Week : Roses
Centifolias (Provence Roses)
Also known as the Cabbage Roses because of their very double form, some of these roses are extremely old. They are often found depicted in the works of the Dutch Masters and it was the Dutch Breeders that were largely responsible for many of these fine roses. They produced as many as 200 new strains of Centifolia in and around the 1600’s. The name means hundred-petalled roses. It is a complex hybrid bred from Rosa gallica, Rosa moschata, Rosa canina, and Rosa damascena; its exact hereditary history is not well documented.
Although the majority of them have extremely beautiful flowers they can be awkward in the garden with somewhat ungainly growth and a proneness to mildew. Having said that, there are a few more compact and tidy varieties.
Pruning as for Albas: Require little pruning except for the removal of very old wood once established (after flowering) and perhaps the shortening of any growths by one third in February.
Cultivars
‘Blanchefleur’ VIBERT France 1835
Very double, sweetly scented white with occasional pink flecks. The plant is of typical Centifolia habit with the weight of the blooms often causing the bows to bend. Soft grey green foliage. Tolerant of shade and poorer soils. 5 x 4’
‘Comtesse de Lacépède’ Breeder Unknown but circa 1840
Superb, many petalled blooms with cupped buds opening to flattish flowers of pale lavender pink and highly perfumed. Other authorities identify it as a blush white rose. 3 x 3'
‘Duchesse de Rohan’ ( ‘Duc de Rohan’)
Raiser not known but circa 1860
A vigorous, growing rose, although slightly untidy. Superb, many-petalled flowers of lavender-pink. Highly scented. Repeat flowering, an uncommon trait in this group. 5 x 4'
‘Fantin-Latour’ c.1900
A beautiful rose though little is known about it. Full flattish many petalled, fragrant flowers of blush pink, abundantly produced Summer flowering. 5 x 4'
‘Juno’ Breeder not known but circa 1832
An arching shrub of medium size with abundant double, blush-pink flowers. Highly scented. A useful shrub of small enough proportion to grow in a tub. It also makes a good hedge and will tolerate poorer conditions. Summer flowering. 4 x 4'
‘La Noblesse’ Breeder unknown 1856 This centifolia has tidy growth but one flush of flowers. They are highly fragrant and well shaped,soft silver pink. 5 x 4'
‘Petite de Hollande’ (‘Pompon des Dames’, Petite Junon de Hollande’) An old rose of unknown origin
Petite and pompon are good words to describe the small scented flowers which resemble pompons, in clear pink with slightly deeper centres. Summer flowering shrub 4 x 3'
‘Petite Lisette’ VIBERT France 1817
One of the smaller and neater Centifolias. Small pompon flowers, around an inch across are of a deep rose pink shade. Scented. Foliage is of a greyish green, a lovely foil for the flowers. Good for the smaller garden where it will make a neat dividing hedge and happy in a pot. Summer flowering. 3 x 3'
‘Pompon de Bourgogne’ (‘Burgundian Rose’) Pre 1664
Smallish pompon-like blooms are deep pink to purple, occasionally flecked with a lighter shade of pink. The summer flowering is prolific. A short, compact plant with dense foliage. (Synonymous with Rosa centifolia parvifolia). 2 x 2'
Rosa centifolia (‘Cabbage Rose’, ‘Provence Rose’) Pre 1600
A beautiful rose, large bright pink, and the fully double flowers are cabbage shaped, on long stems and highly perfumed. Ample grey foliage. Whilst listed as a species rose it is probably quite a complex hybrid and the form we grow today bears larger flowers than the original that was cultivated prior to the 1600’s. Summer flowering and able to cope with poorer soils this is a good candidate for the wild or more natural garden where its lax growth is suited. In a more formal garden it will need placing toward the back of the border. 6 x 5'
Rosa centifolia Bullata (‘Lettuce-leaved Rose’). 1801
Very large leaves with a lettuce-like crinkle to them distinguishes this variety from Rosa centifolia. Otherwise its flowers are very similar, being pure soft pink, fully double and strongly fragrant. 5 x 4'
‘Rose de Meaux’ SWEET UK 1789 One of the best known and prettiest of the smaller more compact Centifolias. Soft pink, small and abundant blooms. Scented. Summer flowering. 2 x 2’
‘Spong’ SPONG France 1805
Rosette flowers of rich, rose pink. Summer flowering although this little rose has been known to produce an odd bloom later on. A good candidate for a tub or smaller garden. 4 x 3’
‘The Bishop’ Date and place of origin unknown
Rosette shaped flowers are an unusual combination of magenta, cerise and purple. They are fragrant and appear fairly early in the summer. A thorny plant of upright habit. 4 x 3'
‘Tour de Malakoff’ (‘Black Jack’) SOUPERT AND NOTTING Luxembourg 1856
Vivid magenta flowers, flushed purple, and fading to a soft lilac grey, are large, blowsy and slightly unusual, though nicely perfumed. A vigorous shrub that can be relaxed in its manner of growth, requiring support, can be grown as a climber against a wall. Summer flowering. 8x 5'
‘Village Maid’( ‘Variegata’, ‘Belles des Jardins’, ‘La Rubanée’) VIBERT France 1845 A free flowering, unique rose of creamy white generously striped and mottled in lilac. Vigorous and thorny and more erect than many in this group. Good perfume. Summer flowering with rare repeats. 5 x 4'
Jo Hanslip
October 2010
GARDENING FOR PLEASURE
Plant of the Week : Roses
Moss Roses
These first appeared as mutations of Centifolia roses in 1720, in which the sepal, calyx and stems have a mossy growth. This is particularly attractive in the bud stage and has a noticeable balsam-like fragrance when touched. Later repeat flowering and more compact hybrids evolved from the Damask roses, although these do tend to be rather less mossy. Very popular with the Victorians who relished such curiosities. The moss, or rather glands that resemble moss can be anything from a soft downy almost fur like covering to lots of tiny prickles. Generally the moss is scented with a balsam-like fragrance that is released upon touch. As with the Centifolias, most of the Moss roses have large full flowers in shades of white through blush to rose pink and deep red.
As something of a novelty in Victorian times the Moss roses were bred in abundance. Somewhere between 30 and 40 different varieties were then available. Moss roses mostly flower on last year’s growth. Prune as for Albas in once-flowering varieties and for Autumn flowering Damask with the repeat flowering sorts.
The Moss roses were a favourite in Empress Josephine's garden at Malmaison, her country estate in Reuil, now a suburb of Paris.
Cultivars
Alfred de Dalmas (‘Mousseline’). PORTEMER France 1855
Clusters of blush semi-double flowers with a strong scent. Unusually for a moss they are freely produced over a long season. 3 x 2'
Capitaine Basroger MOREAU-ROBERT France 1890
An upright Moss rose. Scented deep pink flowers, with a second flush at the end of summer. Best given support in of a frame or a wall. 6 x 4'
Capitaine John Ingram LAFFAY France 1856
One of the most attractive of the Moss roses. Colour varies with the intensity of the sun from dark crimson to purple. Very strongly scented. Moss is often tinged with russet red. Can cope with poor soil reasonably well. Summer flowering. 6 x 4'
Chapeau de Napoléon (‘Crested Moss’, ‘Cristata’) VIBERT France 1826
The most well known of all the Moss roses. Fully double, cabbage-like, deep silvery-pink flowers which are well scented. The buds are covered in an interesting formation of moss resembling the shape of a cocked hat. Summer flowering. 5 x 4'
Common Moss (‘Old Pink Moss’, ‘Communis’). Pre 1700
A well-loved rose of clear pink with an outstandingly strong perfume. As a shrub it is relatively tidy and manageable. Will lend itself to cutting for flower arranging. Summer flowering and copes with poorer soils. 4 x 4'
Comtesse de Murinais ROBERT France 1843
The moss of this rose is richly perfumed of balsam when touched and in hot weather. Clear pink double flowers open flat and are sweetly scented. Summer flowering. Benefits from support. 6 x 4'
Dresden Doll MOORE USA 1975 (Fairy Moss x William Lobb seedling)
One of the modern Moss Miniatures from Ralph Moore, with mossy buds, semi-double, fragrant soft pink flowers. Will create a low boundary hedge. Continuous flowering. 1 x 1'
Eugénie Guinoisseau GUINOISSEAU France 1864
Flowers are a mixture of deep pinks, violets purples and even grey with a paler reverse to the petals. Best given support in the garden as it is quite tall and can be a little floppy. Scented. Leaves are a matt green with darker coloured moss. Sometimes produces flowers later in the season. 6 x 4'
Général Kléber ROBERT France 1856
One of the best Moss roses. Double flowers of clear soft pinky-lilac with a strong scent. Ample lush moss replaces thorns. A neatly proportioned shrub useful for hedging, can be grown in a pot or in the mixed shrubbery, tolerates poor soil. 4 x 4’
Goethe LAMBERT Germany 1911
The only truly single flowered Moss still with us today as opposed to Victorian times when there were several . Rich magenta pink with bright yellow coronet of stamens. Vigorous and inclined to be arching. Summer Flowering. 6 x 4'
Hunslet Moss Re-introduced BEALES UK 1984 A strong fragrance from large, full, deep pink blooms. One of the earliest English Moss roses. Well mossed. A versatile rose that will grow happily in a tub but also works well as hedging. Summer flowering. 4 x 3'
Mme. Louis Lévêque LÉVÊQUE France 1898
Soft ‘tissue paper’ petals of soft to bright pink and very fragrant. A repeat flush of flowers in the autumn. 4 x 3'
Maréchal Davoust ROBERT France 1853
Mauve-pink, very double, heavily covered in red tinted moss. Free flowering. Tidy enough to grow in a tub. Summer flowering. 4 x 3'
Mousseux du Japon (‘Japonica’) Origin unknown. More open and less petalled than many of the Moss roses, but one of the most heavily mossed. Deep rose pink with lilac highlights, vigorous but can be slow to get going when first planted. 4 x 3'
William Lobb (‘Old Velvet Moss’). LAFFAY France 1855
Among the best of Moss roses, and one of the most handsomely coloured. Heavily mossed buds opening to large purple-magenta blooms in clusters. 8 x 5'
Extra Sources
http://www.rdrop.com/~paul/main_sept2.h
http://www.sequoianursery.biz/alphabeti
Jo Hanslip
October 2010
While we were looking at roses, we also had a look at the Large Rose Sawfly, which has devastated rose bushes for some of our members.
Here's how to recognise them:
Large Rose Sawfly Images
And here's some advice from the RHS on dealing with them.
Large Rose Sawfly
Control Non chemical
When spotted, the larvae can be removed by hand.
Chemical control
For heavy infestations, spray with deltamethrin (Bayer Sprayday Greenfly Killer), lambda cyhalothrin (Westland Plant Rescue Fruit & Vegetable Bug Killer), or spray with the systemic insecticide thiacloprid (Provado Ultimate Bug Killer Ready To Use or Provado Ultimate Bug Killer Concentrate 2).
Organic pesticides, such as pyrethrum (Py Spray Garden Insect Killer, Doff All In One Bug Spray, Scotts Bug Clear Gun for Fruit & Veg) will control young larvae but older ones are more tolerant of these insecticides.
Biology
In Britain there are two species of large rose sawfly: Arge pagana and A. ochropus. The adult insects of both species have yellow abdomens with the legs, thorax and heads being mostly black. Arge pagana is the more common species.
Rows of eggs are inserted into soft young rose shoots and female sawflies are sometimes seen dangling from such stems, attached only by their saw-like egg-laying organs.
After hatching, the larvae feed together in family groups. They are pale green with black spots and yellow blotches, and are up to 25mm (about 1in) long. When fully fed, they go into the soil to pupate.
The large rose sawfly (Arge pagana) will produce two (sometimes three) generations from May to October. Arge ochropus usually has a single generation in early summer, but sometimes there is a second generation in late summer.
If you don't want to use chemical control, and hand-picking of larvae isn't working for you, one drastic alternative that we discussed is hard pruning of bushes when the sawflies are egg laying - if they lay eggs in the soft stems of new growth, then getting rid of the new growth deprives them of places to lay their eggs. It might take more than one year to eradicate them, it may fail if your neighbour has infested bushes, and you will be short of flowers for that season, but in bad infestations, it might be worth a last ditch try.
Our main topic was the Garden in November. Here's the handout:
GARDENING FOR PLEASURE
THE GARDEN IN NOVEMBER
November is often considered by gardeners to be the end of the season, but really, it should be looked on as the beginning – the work done now lays the foundation for the garden next season.
1 TREES AND SHRUBS
Decide whether you have enough autumn colour from autumn foliage and long-lasting fruits and berries. If not, decide on new plantings. Colourful stems will also be visible now as leaves fall – have you made use of these and are they in the best place?
Container-grown and bare-root plants can be planted so long as the ground is not frozen. Mulch rhododendrons with chipped bark or compost to protect their shallow roots from frost damage.
Put guards round young trees, shrubs and climbers if there is danger of rabbit or squirrel damage.
Leaves
Rake up fallen leaves, particularly where they are covering lawns and other plants. Leaves can be left to rot down on bare soil, in plastic bags or in wire mesh containers. Small quantities can be incorporated into the compost heap.
Preventing wind-rock
Tall deciduous shrubs such as roses and lavatera can be pruned back by one third to prevent wind rock. Pruning will be completed in spring. Some evergreen shrubs can also suffer from windrock – stake or tie any that do.
Check the ties on all plants to make sure they are not rubbing after the growing season, and are secure, to resist heavier winter winds.
This is the best time of year to tidy up climbing roses. Take them off the wall, or other support. Remove old, tired stems and cut side shoots to within a few inches of the main stem, keeping the best of the current season’s lead shoots. Tie everything back, distributing it evenly to create a good framework over the climbing surface.
Preventing snow damage
Conifers that are fastigiate (have an upright narrow shape), such as Juniperus ‘Skyrocket’ can be badly damaged by heavy snow. Loosely wrapping the branches with wire or netting can prevent this.
Hardwood cuttings
May be taken from deciduous shrubs at any time over the winter. Put in a slit trench with sand in the bottom. Rooting takes about a year. Hardwood cuttings taken last year can be carefully lifted and moved to a nursery bed or potted up. Grow them on for a further year before planting out.
2 SOIL CULTIVATION
Digging, where required, and adding organic matter to the soil should be done now. If organic matter is not well rotted, breakdown robs the soil of nitrogen. However, this is unimportant in winter when plants are not growing. Digging straw, lawn clippings or other plant material which does not contain seeds or perennial roots can be done now, and the soil will be ready for planting in the spring.
Where heavy soil needs digging to improve structure, complete this as soon as possible to allow maximum weathering over winter.
Prepare next season’s planting trenches for sweet peas and runner beans.
3 ORNAMENTAL GARDEN
Now is the time to review how your garden performed during the year. Areas to consider include: practicalities such as paths, compost heap and fences – did they work as they should; colour and form in the borders – are there things you want to change; containers – did they have the impact you wanted; fruit and vegetables – was the harvest worth the effort; focal points – did they attract attention; year round interest – does the garden have enough.
Now is also the time to decide whether you have enough autumn and winter interest for the coming weeks.
Borders
Can be weeded and tidied at any time during the winter, so long as the soil is dry enough not to suffer.
Spring bedding plants and bulbs
November is the best month to plant tulips, which can be susceptible to disease if planted earlier. If you want to mix them with spring bedding plants, such as wallflowers, forget-me-nots or sweet williams, now is the time to plant them.
Lilies can still be planted for flowering next year.
Plant winter pansies by the end of the month to allow them to get established.
Plants that are borderline hardy
Protect plants that are on the delicate side, and that can suffer in frosty weather, such as cistus, fuchsia and penstemons, by tucking bracken, straw, bark or dead leaves around their bases. Don’t use peat or compost, since these hold water and can rot the plant.
Similarly, bulbs such as nerine and agapanthus, which are slightly tender, appreciate a thick mulch.
Herbaceous perennials and alpines
Herbaceous perennials can be divided now and replanted, if they have become overcrowded. This helps to keep them healthy and vigorous. Discard any old, woody or weak sections and fork over the planting area, incorporating a long term fertiliser such as bone meal.
Alpines with woolly or fleshy leaves, such as lewisias, dislike winter wet. The protection of a small cloche or pane of glass can make all the difference to them. Planting lewisias at an angle, so that water runs out of the rosette of leaves, will help. Renew any grit top-dressing if necessary – this will help drainage around the vulnerable crown of the plants.
Spring-flowering perennials can be lifted and brought into flower early in the greenhouse – primroses, drumstick primulas, lily-of-the-valley, bergenia and kingcups are examples. After flowering they can be planted out again.
4 LAWNS
Lawns are looking rather untidy now. Grass will recover as moisture levels increase, but edges that have been affected by overhanging plants will need to be redefined. Either recut the edge (although beware of the border getting larger and larger) or cut a turf and turn damaged edges around so that they are in the lawn itself, and can be reseeded.
5 KITCHEN GARDEN
Check stored fruit and vegetables, discarding any showing signs of rot.
Fruit
New fruit trees and bushes are best planted this month as soon as the new season’s crop is available. Where space is limited, gooseberries can be grown as cordons, like apples, or as standards in the flower garden with strawberries underneath.
Briar fruits can be grown on post-and-wire supports either within the garden or as an unusual boundary.
Prune apple and pear trees and currant bushes.
If you have autumn fruiting raspberries that are still carrying berries, a layer of fleece should protect the fruit from frost.
There is still time to fix grease bands to fruit trees.
Vegetables
If you have decided to make an autumn sowing of broad beans, early varieties are best – for example, Aquadulce Claudia, or Aquadulce Loretta. Similarly with early peas, choose early varieties such as Daybreak, Douce Provence or Feltham First.
Outdoor crops can be covered with cloches, either for short periods to protect them against periods of severe weather, or permanently to encourage earlier crops. Cloches can be home made from wire hoops and a long piece of clear polythene.
Plant garlic by the end of the month. Garlic needs to be well-drained.
Lift and force Witloof chicory; force seakale.
Net brassicas to protect against birds.
If you have been bothered with mealy cabbage aphid (in dense, greyish colonies) or cabbage whitefly, there is an organic insecticide available based on oil seed rape. Several sprayings may be necessary, especially for the whitefly.
6 GREENHOUSE AND COLDFRAME
The greenhouse needs to be heated if you wish to keep it frost-free. There are thermostatically-controlled electric heater, but there are also paraffin and propane gas heaters if you don’t have an electricity supply for the greenhouse. Maintain constant ventilation if you are using gas or paraffin. Bubble polythene is a cheap and effective insulator. If you don’t wish to heat the whole greenhouse, gather the tender plants at one end and separate that section off with a curtain of bubble polythene. You just need to heat the smaller section.
Coldframes can also be insulated with bubble polythene. During really cold weather, added protection can be given by covering the whole frame with a piece of old carpet.
Prick out autumn sown sweet pea seedlings into 3-inch pots. Pinch out the tips of when they are about 4 inches high. Grow on slowly – these will need no heat.
Lift tender fuchsias, begonias and pelargoniums and bring inside.
6 SEED PURCHASES
Decide which seeds you need to purchase – have a good selection of seed catalogues, since range, quality and price vary considerably.
7 WILDLIFE
Bird boxes should be cleaned of old nesting material, which can harbour parasites. Wash out with boiling water, and repair if necessary. Do this well before late winter, when some birds will already be selecting suitable nest sites ready for spring. Decide where your bird boxes should be situated.
Before lighting autumn bonfires, check for hedgehogs and toads that may have crawled inside to hibernate – and take care how you dig in compost heaps, since they can often hibernate in these.
Feed the birds.
8 GARDEN BUILDINGS AND FURNITURE
Make sure that garden buildings are sound and ready for bad weather.
Heavy wooden garden furniture standing outside during the winter should be stood on bricks if it is not already on a stone or concrete base. Consider investing in a waterproof cover to keep out the worst of the winter rain and frost. If water gathers on part of the furniture, such as the seat, it helps to tilt it to allow puddles to drain away.
9 TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
Drain hosepipes, roll them up and store them under cover.
Lag outdoor pipes and taps to prevent freezing – drain them if possible.
Clean tools and equipment as you put them away for the winter.
Clean pots and seedtrays in hot water and disinfectant, ready for spring.
Store canes used during the season in a dry place.
10 WINDOWSILL
Feed flowering pot plants weekly with a liquid fertiliser.
Twist off the dead leaves and flowers from indoor cyclamen where they join the corm; remaining pieces of stem can cause the corm to rot.
11 PONDS
Stop feeding fish – they will live off their reserves during winter.
Jo Hanslip
November 1999
7th revision October 2009
Done everything you need to do?
Jo