librarian2003 (librarian2003) wrote in weagardening, @ 2009-07-04 15:45:00 |
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Current mood: | lethargic |
Week 10 - Plant of the Week - Gladiolus
Our plant of the week this week is that much maligned genus, Gladiolus. We approached it as a mystery plant - I just showed the unlabelled images of the species, which turned out to be very diverse and beautiful, and then we discussed which genus that might be.
Here are the images again. You'll see the species first, and then a small selection of some of the ones more normally in cultivation.
Gladioli
And here's the handout. Don't forget to check out some of the links:
GARDENING FOR PLEASURE
Plant of the Week
Gladiolus Family : Iridaceae
Most gardeners are pacific people - often vexed by moles or rabbits or bindweed but rarely intolerant, particularly of a plant. No other plant produces such a cry of horror as the gladiolus: vulgar, soulless, gauche.
It is difficult to understand where this dislike springs from. Some of the responsibility must lie with the abuse the plant suffers at the hands of less talented flower-arrangers. Memories of the ugly clumps of regimented municipal plantings in the 1950s probably play a part, too. Whatever the reasons, the cognoscenti of the gardening world sneer at gladioli and those who grow them. The pronouncement by Alan Titchmarsh that it is the only plant he hates has turned entire generations of gardeners away from them. But, with 150 species and thousands of hybrids, there must be at least one gladiolus that will sit elegantly in most gardens.
The genus has always had its fans. In France, every potager and small garden has a place for them; America has numerous gladioli appreciation groups; in Holland, breeders continue to add to the extraordinary range of flowers; and here, the British Gladiolus Society provides a refuge for aficionados.
Typically the leaves of gladioli are sword-like (hence the name, the Latin gladius meaning sword) and the tubular flowers grow along one side of the flower spike. In G. communis subsp. byzantinus, found in the Mediterranean, the deep magenta flowers face in several directions, giving it a less two-dimensional look. This plant is well-known and has been grown in this country since 1629. In the wild it forms large colonies on the edges of cultivated meadows and it grows well in a similar garden setting.
Perhaps the most graceful gladiolus is the early-flowering South African species, G. tristis. It has large open creamy flowers with narrow petals and a chocolate blotch at the base. G. tristis also releases a delicate scent in the evening. It is not hardy and is probably best grown in large pots.
The attractive G. papilio is hardy. It is also vigorous in rich soils and reaches 3ft tall. The funnel-shaped flowers are a green-tinted yellow, with the throat flushed chocolate-purple.
There are 10,000 or so gladiolius hybrids, and cultivars are classified into three main groups. The grandiflorus hybrids are those large-flowered blousy tall forms that are not for the faint-hearted. The primulinus group has daintier flowers, very narrow leaves, an upper petal that makes a hood over the rest of the flower and is rarely more than 2ft tall.
The nanus hybrids have narrow leaves and large triangular flowers, growing up to 2ft, and flowering in April and May. G. 'Prins Claus' has clear white flowers with fuchsia markings on the lower tepals. G. 'Nymph' is similar, but the spear-shaped markings have a white centre.
A very old hybrid and one that can be relied on to flower well is G. 'The Bride'. It has pure white flowers. Gertrude Jekyll threaded ribbons of it through her borders, but it also looks good planted in large clumps. This also works well with the self-supporting Gladiolus callianthus (Acidanthera). Flowering in September, it has nodding white flowers with a chocolate-blotched centre.
All but the very tallest gladioli grow well in pots. Many of the species gladioli are too tender to over-winter in the garden but will enjoy the summer baking that they get in pots. If you are growing gladioli as cut flowers, plant them in lines in the vegetable garden. Elsewhere, avoid planting them singly or in rows. Large groups are more effective. If you have room, start your plants in large pots (at least a dozen to a pot) so that you can drop them into gaps in the border.
In general, gladioli are easy to grow in rich, well-drained soil in a sunny location, but as long as they have good drainage and a sunny position, gladioli will tolerate a wide range of soils. The corms can be planted at the beginning of May about 8 inches deep and about 6 inches apart. The deeper they are planted, the more likely they are to stand up without staking. The greater depth will also give them a better chance of survival if you don’t want to lift them in autumn.
Planting is generally done in March and April, but the later you plant them, the later they will flower. Planting in succession from March until the end of June will give you flowers from June until October.
The early-flowering nanus gladioli are best planted in autumn. Frost may knock out any new early growth, but they will recover to flower in the spring. Whether you stake your plants depends on their eventual height. The dwarf and primulinus cultivars will not need staking, but the taller, large-flowered ones may need help to stay upright, unless they’ve been planted really deeply.
As soon as the flowers appear and until at least three weeks after flowering, apply a high-potash feed (like Tomorite or comfrey juice) every two weeks. This is essential on poorer soils where flowering will diminish with each successive season.
Lift them in the autumn and let them dry out. Store the corms in a frost-free well-ventilated shed. If you decide to leave them in the garden, heap some bark chippings or other mulch on top for added protection. If you have a greenhouse, then the little cormlets that form around the base of the parent can be potted up and grown on through the winter. Otherwise, let them dry out and plant them in the garden the following spring.
As with other bulbs, mice and squirrels enjoy gladioli corms. If this is a problem try planting them in baskets designed for water-lilies, covered with chicken wire, then sink the whole thing into the ground.
Poor air circulation around the plant can cause botrytis, but this can be avoided by not planting the corms too closely together. A particularly nasty pest is a thrip, which eats its way into the base of the leaf and munches on the flower buds before they have had a chance to develop. Some pesticides, both chemical and organic, will give control.
Gladioli make excellent, long-lasting cut flowers.
Suppliers
Sarah & Julian Sutton, Pentamar, Crosspark, Totnes, Devon. England. TQ9 5BQ.
http://www.desirableplants.com
Bloms Bulbs, Primrose Nurseries, Melchbourne, Beds MK44 1ZZ Tel: 01234 709099
http://www.blomsbulbs.com
Trecanna Nursery, Latchley, Nr Gunnislake, Cornwall PL18 9AX 01822 834 680
http://www.trecanna.com
Stella and David Rankin, 16 Kevock Road, Lasswade, Midlothian EH18 1HT Tel: 0131 454 0660
http://www.kevockgarden.co.uk
Chiltern Seeds, Bortree Stile, Ulverston, Cumbria, LA12 7PB, Tel: 01229 581137
http://www.chilternseeds.co.uk
RarePlants, P.O. Box 468, WREXHAM, LL13 9XR, United Kingdom. Tel: 01978 366399
http://rareplants.co.uk
Avon Bulbs Ltd, Burnt House Farm, Mid Lambrook, South Petherton, Somerset, TA13 5HE Tel: 01460 242177
http://www.avonbulbs.co.uk
Pioneer Plants
Baldock Lane, Willian, Letchworth, Hertfordshire SG6 2AE Tel: 01462 675858
http://www.pioneerplants.com
Cotswold Garden Flowers, Sands Lane, Badsey, Worcestershire, WR11 7EZ. Tel: 01386 422829
http://www.cgf.net
Great Western Gladiolus, 17 Valley View, Clutton, Bristol BS39 5SN
Sources
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/gardening/ho
http://www.sarahraven.com/articles/glad
Some lovely pictures at
http://www.bulbsociety.org/GALLERY_OF_T
http://blog.360.yahoo.com/blog-YZXWO501
Jo Hanslip
June 2009
Think better of Gladioli now?
Jo