librarian2003 (librarian2003) wrote in weagardening, @ 2010-11-02 00:39:00 |
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Week 5
Our topics for week 5 are the small Patio, Miniature and Dwarf Polyantha roses as Plant of the Week. We also looked at Variegation, and the Use of Foliage in the Garden.
The images are here:
Patio, Miniature and Dwarf Polyantha Roses
And here are the handouts:
GARDENING FOR PLEASURE
Patio, Miniature and Dwarf Polyantha Roses
Patio Roses
Patio roses are small bushes which grow between 18 and 24 inches high (45 - 60 cm). They are compact and flower right through the summer.
They can be grown in tubs or in small beds and borders, in small beds, as dwarf hedges, and as mini-standards.
Polyanthas
These little roses have some excellent qualities and were very popular in the early 1900’s, really only losing favour when the larger flowered Floribundas came onto the scene. They have mainly uses in their own dainty way, useful as bedding or underplanting larger roses or shrubs or as specimen plants in tubs.
Miniature Roses
These are very dwarf roses, often no more than 25cm (10in) tall.
In growth these roses are all very similar, generally short and bushy.
Pruning Patio and Polyantha roses
Prune these is the same way as for full-sized floribunda (cluster-flowered) roses, but on a smaller scale. However, do not cut back newly planted dwarf roses too severely. These roses often produce a mass of twiggy growth. After this unproductive wood has been removed, the main stems should be reduced by about one-third to a healthy bud or lateral. Remove entirely any over-vigorous shoots that spoil the shape of the bush.
All the Polyanthas benefit from regular dead-heading to perpetuate further flowers. This should take the form of the removal of the whole spent bract down to a clean leaf joint below and not the removal of the dead flowers individually.
Pruning Miniature roses
Pruning is usually limited to the shortening back of any weak growths, removal of dead or twiggy growth, and occasional pruning back of older growths to near soil level to encourage vigour from the base.
Cultivars
Anna Ford (Harkness) (Southampton x Darling Flame) Miniature
Orange, slight fragrance, flowers from late spring to the frosts, 12” x 12”
Baby Masquerade (Tantau 1955) (Tom Thumb x Masquerade) Miniature
Yellow, slight fragrance, flowers from late spring to frosts, 12” x 12”
Cameo (de Ruiter, Holland 1932) Dwarf Polyantha
Huge trusses of salmon-pink semi-double flowers, deepening with age, growth dense and tidy, not very thorny. Slight fragrance, good repeater, tolerates shade, 18” x 18”
Cinderella (de Vink 1953) (Cecil Brunner x Tom Thumb) Miniature
Light pink, medium fragrance, thornless, good repeater, 12” x 10”
Free As Air (Mehring 1996) Anna Ford x Brown Velvet Miniature
Russet, slight fragrance, flowers from late spring to frosts, 15” x 10”
Golden Jewel (Rosen Tantau 1996) Miniature
Mid- yellow, not scented, flowers from late spring to frosts, 15” x 10”
Hot Stuff (McGredy 2004) (sport of Claire Rayner) Miniature
Orange, not scented, flowers from late spring to frosts, 15” x 10
Lavender Jewel (Moore 1978) (Little Chief x Angel Face) Miniature
Mauve, slight fragrance, flowers from late spring to frosts, 12” x 12”
Little Buckaroo (Moore 1956) ( [R. wichuraiana x Floradora] x [Oakington Ruby x Floradora] ) Miniature
Dark red, slight fragrance, flowers from late spring to frosts, 15” x 15”
Little White Pet (Henderson 1879) Dwarf Polyantha
White, not scented, good repeater, 15” x 14”
Peter Pan (Warner 1998) (Eyeopener x Mini Red Seedling) Miniature
dark red double flowers, slight fragrance, flowers from late spring to frosts, 12” x 10”
Red Ace (de Ruiter 1977) (Scarletta x Sdlg) Miniature
Dark red, slight fragrance, flowers from late spring to frosts, 12” x 12”
Royal Salute (McGredy 1977) (New Penny x Marlena) Miniature
Deep pink, slight fragrance, flowers from late spring to frosts
Stars 'n' Stripes (Moore 1978) ( [Little Chief x Seedling] x [Little Darling x Ferdinand Pichard] )Miniature
White and red striped semi-double, not scented, flowers from late spring to frosts, 12” x 12”
Wonderful News (Jones 2001) (Little Artist x Seedling) Miniature
White and red, not scented, flowers from late spring to frosts, 15” x 12”,
Coral Cluster (Murrell) Dwarf polyantha
Coral-pink double, not scented, good repeater, 18”
Flower Power (Fryer 1998) Patio
Salmon-pink double, free-flowering, spicy fragrance, good repeater, low compact growth, disease resistant, 12”
Greenalls Glory (Kirkham 1989) (Sport of Regensberg) Patio
White double, pale blush centre, bronze foliage, light fragrance, good repeater, 18” x 2ft
Marie Pavié (Alegatiere 1888) Dwarf Polyantha
Clusters of dainty, fresh, blush-white double flowers on a free-blooming twiggy bush, almost thornless. Not scented, good repeater, very disease resistant, 18”
Queen Mother (Kordes 1991) Patio
Soft pink semi-double, lightly fragranced, good repeater, 18”
Wildfire (Fryer 2004) Patio
An extremely free flowering variety with brilliant flame-orange double flowers. Medium fragrance, good repeater. Dense, compact growth. 2ft. (
Yvonne Rabier (Turbat, France 1910) (R. Wichuraiana x A Polyantha) Dwarf Polyantha
Sprays and clusters of small, fragrant, double white flowers throughout the season. Exceptionally bushy and free-flowering and in every way an excellent Polyantha, 2’ x 2’
Baby Faurax (Lille, France 1924) Dwarf Polyantha
A pretty dwarf, smothered with small lavender-purple semi-double flowers. Not scented, continuous flowering. 12” x 12”
Bright Smile (Dickson) Patio
Slender, pointed buds of clear yellow, semi-double flowers. Light fragrance, good repeater. Growth neat and bushy. 2 ft.
Cider Cup (Dickson) Patio
Deep apricot Hybrid Tea blooms produced in abundant clusters over a neat bush. Not scented. 18” x 18”
Gloire du Midi (De Ruiter) Dwarf Polyantha
Clusters of small, double orange-scarlet flowers. Vigorous compact growth. Slight fragrance, good repeater. 18”
Hakuun (Poulsen 1962) [Seedling x (Pinocchio x Pinocchio)] Patio
Small semi-double buff-orange flowers, becoming creamy-white. Not scented. Good repeater. Bushy growth. 18”
Katharina Zeimet (Lambert, Germany, 1901) Dwarf Polyantha
A pretty little white Polyantha, with flowers of a pleasing delicacy and sweet fragrance. Good repeater. 2’ x 2’
Little Flirt (R. Moore) Miniature
A small, double orange-red flower, with gold at the base and on the reverse of the petals. Vigorous and bushy growth. Slight fragrance. 12 ins.
Marie-Jeanne (Turbat, France 1913) Dwarf Polyantha
Very large clusters of small, blush-cream, rosette shaped flowers. Almost thornless. Not scented. Good repeater. Good in a tub. 3ft.
Miss Edith Cavell (de Ruiter, Holland 1917) (sport of Orleans Rose) Dwarf Polyantha
A particularly free flowering variety with large trusses of small scarlet-crimson semi-double flowers. Recently rediscovered. Not scented, some repeat flowering. Very healthy. 2’ x 2’
Nathalie Nypels (Leenders 1919) [Orleans Rose x (Comtesse du Cayla × R. foetida bicolor) ] Dwarf Polyantha
An excellent Polyantha with some China Rose in its make-up. Medium semi-double rose-pink flowers. Good repeater. Fragrant. 2 ft.
Pour Toi (Dot) Miniature
Semi-double; white with creamy-yellow shadings. Not scented. Good repeater. 10”
Regensburg (McGredy 1980) Patio
A pretty combination of both pink and silver semi-double blooms smother this plant all season. Excellent for bedding. Light fragrance, good repeater. 1.5 ft. x 2 ft.
Sweet Dream (Fryer 1988) Patio
This is an excellent little rose with bushy, upright growth and dense, glossy foliage. The flowers are apricot-peach and of the most attractive, neat, full-petalled, cupped formation. Light fragrance, good repeater. 1.5 ft.
Little Artist (McGredy 1982) (Eyepaint x Ko's Yellow) Patio
Semi-double red and white blend flowers, slight fragrance. Good repeater.18” x 24”.
Anna-Maria de Montravel (RAMBAUD France 1880) Dwarf Polyantha
Clusters of small white semi-double flowers. Light fragrance. Growth is bushy and dense. Continuous flowering and tolerant of shade, a good all round little rose. 2’ x 2’
Gloria Mundi (DE RUITER Holland 1929) Dwarf Polyantha
Trusses of medium size of orange to scarlet, semi-double flowers on a compact bush. Continuous to repeat flowering. 2’ x 2'
Golden Salmon Superior (DE RUITER Holland 1926) Dwarf Polyantha
Large clusters of small, semi-double, rich bright scarlet to orange flowers produced in profusion all summer. 2’ x 2'
Margo Koster (KOSTER Holland 1931) Dwarf Polyantha
Clusters of cupped salmon pink flowers in great profusion over a long period. Dark green foliage. Shade tolerant and an ideal choice for a planter. 1 x 1'
Jo Hanslip
October 2010
GARDENING FOR PLEASURE
Variegation
Variegation is the appearance of differently coloured zones in the leaves, and sometimes the stems, of plants. The term is also sometimes used to refer to colour zoning in flowers.
Chimeral
Some plants have more than one type of genetic makeup in their tissues. Usually, some of the plant’s growing point loses the ability to produce chloroplasts, so that the tissue is no longer green, unlike the rest of the growing point.
If the part of the meristem that produces epidermal tissue loses the ability to produce chloroplasts, the margins of leaves may be white or yellow. There are several other types of such variegation, depending on the tissues that have been affected, and their relationship to each other. Variegation may be consistent and symmetric in appearance throughout the whole plant, or it may be quite random in location. In some plants, entire branches or stems including the leaves may not contain chlorophyll. The variegation in some forms is unstable. The extent and nature of the variegation can vary, and sometimes the plant will return to the green form. In others it is stable and does not change under normal conditions.
Because the variegation is due to the presence of two kinds of plant tissue, only vegetative propagation preserves both types of tissue.
As these plants have some of their tissue unable to carry out photosynthesis, the plant will be weaker than the plain green plant. They should generally be expected to die out in nature and their only real source of survival is through cultivation.
Reflective
Some variegation is a visual effect due to reflection of light from the leaf surface. This can happen when an air layer is located just under the epidermis, resulting in a white or silvery reflection. It is sometimes called blister variegation. Pilea (aluminum plant) is an example of a house plant that shows this effect. Cyclamen hederifolium leaves show this patterned variegation, varying between plants, but consistent within each plant.
Another type of reflective variegation is caused by hairs on parts of the leaf, which may be coloured differently from the leaf. This is found in various Begonia species and garden hybrids.
Sometimes venal variegation occurs – the veins of the leaf are picked out in white or yellow. This is due to lack of green tissue above the veins. It can be seen in some arums.
The blessed milk thistle, Silybum marianum, is a plant in which another type of vein variegation occurs, but in this case it is blister variegation.
Pigmentary
A common cause of pigmentary variegation is the masking of green pigment by other pigments, such as anthocyanins. This often extends to the whole leaf, causing it to be reddish or purplish. On some plants however, consistent zonal markings occur; such as on some clovers, bromeliads, certain Pelargonium and Oxalis species. On others, such as the commonly grown forms of Coleus, the variegation can vary widely within a population.
Orange, yellow, and light green leaf colours result from low amounts of the green pigment chlorophyll, unmasking the orange carotenoid and yellow xanthophyll pigments and allowing them to appear. Shades of pink, red, and purple are the result of anthocyanin pigments. If produced in sufficient quantities, they can mask even the green chlorophyll. Interestingly enough, most temperate deciduous trees and shrubs produce these colours by these same mechanisms in the autumn, but variegation only applies to leaves with these colours all the time.
Pathological
Virus infections may cause patterning to appear on the leaf surface. The patterning is often characteristic of the infection. Examples are the mosaic viruses, which produce a mosaic type effect on the leaf surface or the citrus variegation virus. While these diseases are usually serious enough that the gardener would not grow affected plants, there are a few affected plants that can survive indefinitely, and are attactive enough to be grown for ornament; e.g. some variegated Abutilon varieties.
Cultivation
Variegated plants often have more exacting environmental needs than the all-green members of the species. They often cannot tolerate very low light conditions (less chlorophyll for photosynthesis) but, on the other hand, may scorch under bright light (less protective pigmentation). Less vigour, smaller leaves, and increased sensitivity to temperature extremes are other features associated with variegation. These characteristics may explain why there are not that many variegated plants found in nature. Unless variegation has some adaptive feature, such as attracting pollinators or repelling herbivores, it is a liability that makes variegated plants less likely to successfully compete with all green plants.
Where plants have a tendency to revert to plain green, regular cutting out of reverted shoots is necessary.
Jo Hanslip
September 2010
http://faculty.ucc.edu/biology-ombr
VARIEGATED PLANTS
GARDENING FOR PLEASURE
Using Foliage throughout the year
Foliage plants play a big role in garden design. They offer contrasting leaf colour and texture, and help to ground the colourful flowers in a mixed border. Foliage plants woven into a flower bed add immense interest by helping to separate the flowers that make up the garden tapestry. They soften the scene and fill in the rough edges. Foliage can act to separate blocks of colour that would otherwise clash, or to enhance the colour of flowers. Interesting gardens can be made entirely of foliage
Breaking up a flower border by artfully adding some greenery between the flowers gives the eyes a place to rest. In garden design, foliage is as important aesthetically as bringing in peonies, roses or delphiniums. And the choices in foliage plants in various textures and from light grey to deep burgundy is outstanding.
Evergreen plants are relatively unchanging, often overshadowed in summer, but coming into their own in winter.
Deciduous or herbaceous plants can have more than one season of foliage interest, if they change colour with the seasons.
There are three main keys to choosing and grouping foliage: texture, shape and colour. Before planting, take the plants and try arranging them so that they form a pleasing mix of these elements. Shuffle until satisfied. This can be done at the garden centre before purchase as well.
There are three main categories of foliage texture: fine, medium and broad. Too much fine foliage and the border can look fussy; too much broad foliage and the garden can look heavy, although an exotic garden will rely on big, bold leaves for its overall appearance.
Plants with a fine texture are those with small or dissected leaves, such as Russian sage, thyme, lavender, fennel, coreopsis, gaura, ferns, asters, and astilbe. Some small-leafed plants, like fennel and Russian sage are “see through” in that the foliage is so sparse and divided that even though they are tall they do not screen out shorter, fuller plantings that are behind them.
Many ornamental grasses also have very fine blades, like Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning Light’ which actually glows when the sun hits it from behind, or Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’, which is a golden grass that grows in horizontal waves – a beautiful front of the border plant in light shade.
Plants with medium texture have more substantial foliage. These include heucheras, perennial geraniums, rudbeckia, echinacea, daylilies (although the tiny ones can have grassy, fine foliage), peonies, dahlias, campanula, Oriental poppies, begonias and many more.
Plants with bold texture include large leafed ones such as acanthus, hostas, cannas, aralia, ricinus and more.
Garden groups can be made of contrasting foliage. For example, one peony plant is substantial enough to make up a drift of its own. Contrast it with a daylily and three coreopsis for a pleasing composition.
Taking Leaf and Plant Shape into Consideration
The overall shape of leaves affects both the appearance of the plant and its use in a pleasing design. While some grasses are fine textured, their long, thin shape is very different from the lacy texture of a fern. The two form enough contrast to work together.
The same goes for lance-leafed plants such as daylilies – the overall shape of this plant is that of a fountain – much like the shape of miscanthus or fountain grass. This contrasts well with more upright plants such as peonies, as well as with those that form rounded clumps like geraniums and heuchera.
Hostas, mounded shapes with broad foliage, contrast well with lacy ferns which are vase shaped and upright. They also work with fountain-shaped plants and with the unusually shaped waves of Hakonechloa; because of the boldness of each leaf, they also work with almost any medium textured foliage.
Plants usually come in a variety of shapes: fountain, vase, fan, upright and mounded. Contrasting shapes is as important to a good basic design as is leaf texture. Study your plants and try arranging them while still in their nursery pots, aiming for a good contrast in texture and shape.
The range of foliage colour is not limited to green. Purple, gold, red, and variegated are just a few examples. The colours can be used in place of flowers, to provide colour when flowers are out of season in that part of the garden. Or, they can be used to highlight flower colour – dark foliage will provide an effective contrast to any pale flower colour. Grey foliage and pink or purple flowers look very effective.
Some flowers are green, and these, too, could be regarded as ‘foliage’ as well as flowers. The tall green spires of molucella can act as a green accent, or be sued to separate different colours in taller flowers.
There are many herbs useful for contrasting foliage. While some choices may flower they still offer a great break between the other plants in the garden. Sage, fennel, lavender and rosemary are good examples
Foliage can only serve these decorative purposes if it is healthy. Ugly, mildewed foliage detracts, rather than enhances.
Jo Hanslip
October 2010
Have you reviewed the use of foliage in your garden?
Jo