librarian2003 (![]() ![]() @ 2010-01-19 11:29:00 |
![]() |
|||
![]() |
|
![]() |
|
![]() |
Current mood: | ![]() |
Entry tags: | february garden, february plants, january garden, january plants |
Week 1 - the Garden in January and February
Unlikely as it seems, Spring will definitely come, and these jobs will need to be done:
GARDENING FOR PLEASURE
THE GARDEN IN JANUARY AND FEBRUARY
In January you can do much of your planning for the coming year, reviewing how the garden performed last year and deciding what to do differently. If you have any neglected ground, now is the time to start planning to clear it. February can be a difficult month for working outside – it really does more harm than good to work on soaking wet soil.
1 Shrubs and trees
Check that tree ties are secure, with enough room for growth. Check new plantings for frost heave – frost can lift the ground around roots, and wind can rock the stems, allowing water to lie on the crown of the roots and causing rotting.
Plant deciduous trees and shrubs where ground conditions permit. Deciduous trees and shrubs can be moved now, whilst they are dormant, provided the ground is workable. Lift established plants with as large a rootball as possible. Prepare the soil in the new planting hole well, digging compost deeply into it. Firm the soil around the transplanted shrub, and provide a stake for support if required. Water in well and mulch with bark or compost. Prune very large transplanted shrubs, as the damaged root system may not be able to support them initially.
Mulch rhododendrons and slightly tender shrubs to protect from frost.
Protect pot grown shrubs in severe weather. Put the containers close together, preferably against a wall. In February they can be top-dressed with new compost – you can mix in a slow release fertiliser.
Prune young wisteria shoots, except for main leaders, to within 3 inches of last year’s growth, unless you want the plant to cover more space. If you don’t have a wall or framework on which to train your wisteria, you can grow it as a freestanding tree, in the garden or in a pot. These should be pruned hard in midwinter to keep them in shape.
Check foliage on camellia and bay shrubs for scale insect. A systemic insecticide gives best control if you can still find one.
Small flowered clematis that flower in late summer – Clematis orientalis, C. texensis, C. tangutica and C. viticella species and varieties, for example – should be hard pruned in February. Prune each stem back to about 12 inches, cutting to a pair of strong healthy buds. These clematis are ideal for growing through climbing roses, as both plants can be pruned at the same time.
Large flowered clematis that flower in mid to late summer should be pruned at the same time. Remove all thin weak stems and prune the remaining ones back by around a third to a strong pair of buds. Prune some stems more heavily to promote growth from the base.
Summer and winter jasmines (Jasminum officinale and J. nudiflorum) can be pruned in February. Weak, dead and damaged shoots should be removed. For winter jasmine, immediately after flowering, shorten all side shoots and long straggly growth to within 2 inches of the main stem to encourage a bushy habit and plenty of flowering shoots next winter. Thin overgrown plants of summer jasmine by removing some of the older branches completely, either at ground level or where they join the main stems. Don’t just shorten the stems or you will encourage lots of thin bushy shoots.
For the hardier evergreens, such as laurel, pruning can be done now. Thin out overgrown evergreens by removing entire branches where they join the stem or at ground level. Cut back mahonias after flowering to encourage new growth. More tender plants, such as choisya, are best pruned in summer.
Cornus, grown for their coloured stems, can be cut back in February.
2 Hedges and fences
Cut back overgrown deciduous hedges as early as possible, before the birds start nesting. Save some of the prunings if you need twiggy peasticks. Cut 1-2 feet lower than the desired height, and shape for stability – narrower at the top than the bottom.
Weeds will be germinating in the shelter of the hedge bottom, and should be controlled before they get out of hand.
Before plants really get into growth, use the opportunity to remove debris from the garden, and to take down or repair fences and trellises.
3 Propagation
Root cuttings can be taken of certain perennials, including Acanthus, Anchusa, Brunnera, Catananche (Cupid’s Dart), Dicentra (bleeding heart), Limonium (sea lavender), Papaver orientale (oriental poppy) and Romneya (tree poppy). Put the pots in a cold frame or stand in a sheltered place outside and cover with a cloche. When growth starts, pot up the cuttings individually and grow them on to get them well established before planting out, usually next year.
Towards the end of February, take basal cuttings of hardy perennials that are quick off the mark to start growing – anthemis for example.
Divide and pot up single rooted pieces of clump-forming perennials such as Michaelmas daisies. These can be grown on and planted out in April.
Low branches of shrubs such as rhododendrons can be layered.
In January, sow alpines and other perennials that need a period of cold. Sweet peas can be sown outside towards the end of February.
4 Beds and borders
If the garden is workable start removing weeds from beds and borders, before easily damaged new shoots appear on your plants. Groundsel and chickweed continue seeding even in winter. Warm spells will often allow seedlings to germinate, and disturbing the soil with a hoe is usually enough to kill them before they become a nuisance.
Remove smothering autumn leaves from the crowns of alpines.
If the weather conditions permit, a good mulch can be laid now, 2-3 inches thick and will smother new weed seedlings. Be careful not to cover small spring bulbs such as winter aconites. Whilst mulching, check whether any slightly tender plants that have a layer of straw or bracken to protect them need a top-up.
If you have any labelled plants, the name is likely to be weathering off. Check plant labels and use a pencil or indelible pen to re-label where necessary, before the name fades completely.
Many perennials can be cut back hard now, removing old growth to make room for new shoots that grow up in spring. If you have epimediums, helleborus orientalis or deciduous ornamental grasses, February is a good time for cutting back any tatty foliage, before new growth really starts. If the weather is severe, and there is no sign of new growth, wait until the end of the month to do this – the dead foliage will provide a little protection.
Winter flowering pansies and primulas should be dead-headed regularly to encourage flowering.
Nutrient levels are low in spring, so use a dressing of fertiliser in February. Use a fertiliser fairly high in phosphate but low in nitrogen.
Water tubs and wall trained plants if necessary.
5 Kitchen garden
Plan your plantings for the coming season. Order seeds, plants, onion sets, asparagus and potatoes as soon as possible to get the best choice.
Dig bare areas of heavy ground if conditions permit, incorporating compost or manure as you go. Annual weeds can be buried in the ground during digging, but the roots and leaves of perennial weeds should be removed and destroyed.
Prepare trenches for runner beans (and sweet peas) which need a moisture retentive soil to crop well. Choose a sunny site and dig out a trench two spades deep. Half fill it with material that holds moisture well, like newspaper and kitchen waste, or compost, then refill with soil. Mark the position, so you won’t forget where it is when planting later in the spring.
Apples and pears can be pruned, and new fruit trees planted. On trained forms of apple tree, such as espaliers and cordons, sideshoots shortened in summer can be reduced in length now to about three buds. Any new shoots that have grown to extend the framework can be tied in to their supports.
Prune outdoor grapevines to encourage new growth.
Shorten sideshoots on trained gooseberries back to two or three buds. Shorten sideshoots on red and white currants to just one bud. Also remove any old stems crowding the centre of the bush.
Autumn fruiting raspberries should be pruned now – cut the old canes right back to ground level.
Feed established fruit trees and soft fruit – pelleted chicken manure is good, or rose fertiliser – the high potash content will give fruiting a boost. A good mulch will also be beneficial.
Fruit bushes may need to be netted to protect buds from hungry birds, as will brassicas, like broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower and kale.
Test soil pH and lime if necessary.
Towards the end of January, start early vegetables in modules in the greenhouse. Try early lettuce varieties, spinach, summer cauliflower and summer cabbage, radishes, salad onions, onions, round carrots, turnips, beetroot and oriental greens. Put two or three seeds in each cell, and plant out without thinning – the young plants will push apart from each other. Alternatively, continue to grow on in an unheated greenhouse for an earlier crop.
Chit potatoes in a light, airy, cool place, before planting next month.
Prepare ground for spring sowing - warm up by laying a sheet of clear polythene over it 4-6 weeks before you want to start sowing. This also makes the ground more workable, and encourages the first flush of weed seeds to come up early, so that they can be hoed off before sowing starts. Alternatively, place cloches over areas to be planted. Apply a general fertiliser 2 weeks before sowing.
Bring potted strawberries inside for forcing. They can be grown in pots, or in hanging baskets to save space. Feed with a high potash fertiliser and water well. Outside, they can still be forced. Cover with cloches towards the end of February. Make sure there is ventilation at each end, and when the plants are in flower, remove the cloches during the day to let pollinating insects in.
Start forcing rhubarb for tender young shoots. Place buckets or forcing jars over dormant clumps to encourage stems for an early harvest. Similarly, clumps of seakale can be also be forced. Harvest the white shoots as they appear.
In February, where conditions permit, plant out Jerusalem artichokes and shallots.
In February, sow vegetables under cloches, including beetroot, carrots, lettuce, spinach, turnips, cauliflowers, radish and salad onions. Broad beans and peas can be sown in the open ground, but protect from mice.
If the weather is dry and not too cold, a first sowing of parsley can be made in the open towards the end of February. Parsley prefers a damp, shady site.
Hazel (cobnuts and filberts) will be flowering, with bunches of catkins. If you only have room for one shrub, make sure that it is a self-fertile variety. Hazel can be coppiced every few years to make sticks and poles – some stands of hazel coppice are a thousand years old.
6 Lawns, paths and patios
Clean moss from paths and patios – use a pressure washer, a stiff brush and a paving cleaner, or hot water and bleach. On compacted gravel paths, raking and loosening the gravel can disperse moss and algae.
Aerate lawns suffering from poor drainage. Where lawns are not thriving, rake out the thatch to allow light, air and water through to the roots.
Cut an established lawn for the first time during mild weather, if growth has started in February. Set the mower blades higher than usual for the first two or three cuts of the year.
Remove lawn weeds – dig them out with a narrow trowel or old knife, or a daisy grubber. For lawn weedkillers, only use if the weather is mild and dry; otherwise wait until next month.
7 Greenhouse and windowsill
Check the greenhouse at least once per week and tidy up plants as necessary. Fungal diseases are more likely to appear during winter months. Good hygiene will help to avoid them, so remove dead or damaged leaves and flowers, and ensure good air circulation between plants. Do not overwater.
Wash the greenhouse glass if it’s going green or is grimy, ready for spring.
Ventilate the greenhouse on mild days, but close up again by mid-afternoon as the temperature starts to drop. Check for gaps in bubble film insulation.
Give a weak liquid feed to flowering houseplants and any in active growth. Water plants very sparingly. Tidy up house plants – remove yellowing leaves that can harbour disease, and check for pests.
In a heated greenhouse, start off geraniums from seed as soon as possible.
Pot up a few lily-of-the-valley for flowering indoors.
Force some stems of winter flowering shrubs, such as Viburnum or winter jasmine, if they aren’t flowering already, by bringing some cut stems, with buds just showing colour, into the house and place them in a jar of water in a warm spot until the buds open.
Autumn-sown sweet peas should be pricked out if this has not already been done. Keep them in a cold frame or cold greenhouse, or in a sheltered spot outside, but protect from rodents. Pinch out the tips to encourage sideshoots to make bushy plants.
In February, hardy annuals can be grown from seed and planted out later in spring. They can be sown a few seeds to a module, and then planted out without thinning. Alternatively, wait until March and sow directly into the ground.
Dahlias and chrysanthemums stored over winter should be brought into growth in February if you want to take cuttings from the new shoots. Put the potted tubers/stools in full light in a frost-free place and water well. Newly bought stools can be treated in the same way. Other tender perennials that have been overwintered can be brought into growth towards the end of February, including fuchsias and marguerites. Repot into fresh compost, prune back and water well.
Tomato and aubergine seeds can be sown either in a heated greenhouse or on a warm windowsill from the middle of February. Tomato seed needs light to germinate, so cover thinly with sieved compost or with vermiculite.
Start sowing half-hardy annuals and half-hardy perennials, which need a longer growing season before flowering. Best sown in heat in February, for example, are Antirrhinum, Begonia, Lobelia, Nicotiana and Petunia. Make the first sowings in a heated propagator since most require a germination temperature of 21C(70F).
Tender annuals and perennials to sow now for pots and containers include Browallia, Coleus, Exacum, Gerbera, winter cherry (Solanum capsicastrum) and Black-eyed Susan (Thunbergia alata), Clarkia, Salpiglossis and Schizanthus. Sow at a temperature of about 16°C, prick out into small pots and finally pot up 3 to a 5-inch pot. For really cheap and cheerful pot plants, do the same with annual bedding, like petunia, busy lizzies and antirrhinums.
Cacti and succulents are still in their resting phase. Don’t allow them to become dust dry – a tiny amount of water will keep the roots functional – but keep in good light.
Watch out for the first signs of greenhouse pests such as whitefly and greenfly.
Hippeastrums should be in full flower – feed weekly, and do not allow to go short of water.
If you don’t have a cold frame, consider whether one would be useful. Not only are they useful in spring for hardening off young plants, but also in winter, they provide a little extra protection for borderline hardy plants. Choose a sheltered site in full light but out of the prevailing wind.
8 Shed, tools and equipment
Clean pots and seed trays using hot water and household bleach. Dirty seed trays can harbour pests and diseases.
Get the lawn mower serviced – if you leave it until spring, the shops will be overwhelmed.
Check the cables on electrical equipment – look for worn or split sections.
If possible, keep garden furniture under cover. Now is the best time to repaint, or coat with preservative, after letting them dry out for a few weeks. For unpainted wood, you can lightly sand it down, then apply a couple of coats of equal parts of turpentine and raw linseed oil.
Check that all machinery and tools are in good working order.
• Remove rust from tools with emery paper or a wire brush
• Wipe blades with an oily cloth or spray with WD40 or similar
• Wipe wooden tool handles with raw linseed oil or teak oil
• Use white spirit to remove dried sap from knife blades and secateurs
• Oil the hinges of penknives
• Sharpen knives regularly
• Hang tools on the shed wall, so they are easy to find
Stock up on pots, labels, twine and other sundries.
9 Pools and ponds
Ice forming a solid layer for more than a couple of days causes toxic gases to build up underneath. Keep an ice hole free in fishponds – never smash the ice – stand a pan of boiling water on it to gradually melt the ice, or keep a rubber ball in the pond to keep a small ice-free area.
10 Containers
Even in winter, containers may need watering in dry spells. Without water, plants can become stressed and more susceptible to pests and diseases – an outbreak of aphids can devastate winter pansies. Frozen soil has the same result, since plants cannot absorb water, and flag as if they were in a drought.
If containers are waterlogged, drainage is insufficient, or blocked. Use a knife to clear the hole (if it’s blocked with roots, the plant will need re-potting in spring) and stand the pot on bricks or pot feet to help the water drain away. Leaving it waterlogged will kill the plants.
11 Bulbs
Potted bulbs that have finished flowering can be planted outside. First, move them to a cool, light location, remove the faded flower heads and allow the leaves to die back naturally. Feed and water as required during this process to build up the bulbs. Then plant out. Potted bulbs stored in the dark for forcing should be checked regularly.
Bulbs stored for later planting should be checked regularly for signs of rot or deterioration. Remove diseased ones and sprinkle others with sulphur powder to prevent disease attack.
Begonias and gloxinias can be bought now as tubers and half buried (no deeper or they may rot) in trays or pots of compost at about 13°C. Plant begonia tubers hollow side uppermost. When the shoots are about one inch high, transfer them into 5-inch pots and grow on in plenty of light. Water as needed by standing the pot in a saucer of water – surface water on the tuber can cause it to rot. Feed weekly with a liquid fertiliser.
Lilies will be available now. Choose ones that are firm and fat, rather than withered and soft. They like the same sort of moisture-retentive soil as sweet peas, so dig in plenty of well-rotted compost. If necessary, add grit to improve drainage. Plant so that the bulbs are covered by 4-8 inches of soil, or in large pots. Many of the commonly available lilies are stem-rooting (they form roots from the lower parts of the stem as well as from the bulb). Particularly when planting in pots, make sure that the bulb is deep enough to accommodate these. The exception on planting depth is the Madonna Lily (Lilium candidum), which is planted with the top just below the soil surface.
Snowdrops and winter aconites establish best if planted ‘in the green’ (immediately after flowering). These can be bought from specialist nurseries. Overcrowded clumps of snowdrops can be split after flowering and replanted immediately at the same depth.
Gladioli will flower earlier if sprouted in the greenhouse. Place single layers of corms in trays in a temperature of 10C in full light. Watch for signs of aphids on the sprouts. Plant out in March. Discard any diseased corms.
Although they can be difficult, now is the time to try potting up some tubers of Anemone coronaria – usually either the single-flowered De Caen Group, or the double flowered St Bridgid Group. Soak overnight before potting.
12 Armchair
Seed and bulb catalogues are a great source of inspiration and information, and are mainly free. Order some and enjoy. Order seeds, summer flowering bulbs and young plants from mail order suppliers before they sell out of the best varieties.
13 Places to go
Hodsock Priory, Blyth, Notts – snowdrop and winter garden. Open Saturday 30 January 2010 to Sunday 28 February 2010. Tel: (01909) 591204 or http://www.snowdrops.co.uk/
14 Wildlife
Put out regular supplies of food and water for the birds – some resident bird species may be already nesting during this month if the weather is mild.
When planning changes to your garden for the coming year, consider planting something to provide food for the birds (for example, holly, cotoneaster, pyracantha and mountain ash for their berries, sunflowers, poppies, and teasels for seeds). The earliest flowers – spring bulbs, hellebores, etc – will provide nectar for bees and early butterflies – check that you have some nectar bearing plants in the garden for these early visitors.
Hedgehogs are deep in their winter sleep now, living on reserves of body fat, although an unseasonably warm spell may see them emerge for a snack.
All amphibians are hidden away in cold, dark, damp places, under logs, wedged into the gaps in stone walls and in the nooks and crannies of suitable cellars. If you uncover one of these creatures, try to replace their cover gently so that they have the best chances of survival.
Encourage birds like blue tits by providing nest boxes. When choosing and siting, remember that nestlings are easy prey for predators. Boxes should be at least 6 feet off the ground, without access for squirrels and cats. Surrounding the nest box with 2” wire mesh will allow small birds through, but keep out larger nest robbers such as magpies. Provide lots of prickly shrubs for nest sites.
Ponds will be coming alive with mating frogs and toads, giving gallons of spawn that will hatch into tadpoles by mid-March.
Jo Hanslip
January 2000
Revised January 2010
Here are the seasonal plants
GARDENING FOR PLEASURE
SEASONAL PLANTS FOR JANUARY
1 Border and rock garden
Arum italicum ‘Pictum’ Painted arum
Crocus
Eranthis Winter aconite
Galanthus Snowdrop
Helleborus niger Christmas Rose
Helleborus foetidus Stinking hellebore
Helleborus argutifolius Corsican hellebore
Iris unguicularis Algerian iris
Narcissus
Sempervivum
2 Trees and shrubs with colourful fruit or stems
Acer davidii Snakebark maple
Aucuba Spotted laurel
Betula jacquemontii
Cornus alba ‘Kesselringii Dogwood (purple/black)
Cornus alba ‘Sibirica’ (red)
Cornus mas Cornelian cherry
Cornus sanguinea ‘Winter Flame’ (pink/red/orange/yellow)
Cornus stolonifera ‘Flaviramea’ (yellow)
Eucalyptus niphophila Snow gum
Gaultheria
Prunus serrula Tibetan cherry
Rubus cockburnianus Silver bramble
Rubus thibetanus Tibetan bramble
Salix alba ‘Britzensis’ Willow (orange-red)
Salix alba vitellina Willow (yellow)
Salix gracilistyla ‘Melanostachys’ Willow (deep purple)
Salix x sepulcralis Willow (twisted, orange-yellow)
Pyracantha
Skimmia
3 Trees and shrubs in flower
Chimonanthus praecox Wintersweet
Clematis cirrhosa
Daphne mezereum
Erica Winter flowering heather
Garrya elliptica
Hamamelis Witch Hazel
Jasminum nudiflorum Winter flowering jasmine
Lonicera fragrantissima Winter honeysuckle (shrubby)
Lonicera x purpusii Winter honeysuckle (shrubby)
Lonicera x standishii Winter honeysuckle (shrubby)
Mahonia
Prunus subhirtella ‘Autumnalis’ Autumn Cherry
Sarcococca confusa Christmas Box
Sarcococca hookeriana var digyna Christmas Box
Skimmia
Viburnum x bodnantense
Viburnum farreri
Viburnum tinus
4 Greenhouse plants in flower
Azalea indica
Cineraria
Euphorbia pulcherrima Poinsettia
Primula obconica
Forced bulbs
5 House plants in flower
Anthurium
Aphelandra Zebra plant
Cyclamen persicum
Impatiens
Saintpaulia
6 Vegetables in season
Artichoke – Jerusalem
Brussels sprouts
Cabbage
Carrots
Chicory
Leek
Onion
Parsnip
Radish – winter
Salsify
Scorzonera
Swede
Jo Hanslip
January 2000
Revised January 2009
GARDENING FOR PLEASURE
SEASONAL PLANTS FOR FEBRUARY
1 Border and rock garden
Anemone blanda
Chionodoxa
Crocus ancyrensis
Crocus chrysanthus
Crocus tomasinianus
Cyclamen
Eranthis hyemalis Winter aconite
Euphorbia characias wulfenii
Galanthus Snowdrop
Helleborus argutifolius Corsican hellebore
Helleborus foetidus Stinking hellebore
Helleborus niger Christmas rose
Helleborus orientalis Lenten rose
Helleborus sternii
Hepatica
Iris danfordiae
Iris reticulata
Iris unguicularis Algerian iris
Leucojum vernum Spring snowflake
Muscari Grape hyacinth
Narcissus Daffodil
Primula
Pulmonaria Lungwort
Saxifraga
Viola odorata Sweet violet
Winter flowering pansies
2 Trees and shrubs in flower
Alnus Alder
Camellia
Chimonanthus Wintersweet
Cornus mas Cornelian cherry
Corylus Hazel
Daphne mezereum
Erica Winter flowering heather
Garrya elliptica ‘James Roof’
Forsythia
Hamamelis Witch hazel
Jasminum nudiflorum Winter jasmine
Lonicera fragrantissima
Lonicera purpusii
Mahonia
Prunus cerasifera
Prunus x subhirtella ‘Autumnalis’ Autumn cherry
Rhododendron ‘Praecox’
Sarcococca Christmas Box
Stachyurus praecox ‘Magpie’
Viburnum x bodnantense
Viburnum tinus
3 Trees and shrubs with colourful fruits
Aucuba Spotted laurel
Gaultheria
Pyracantha
Skimmia japonica
4 Greenhouse plants in flower
Azalea indica
Cineraria
Cyclamen
Hippeastrum
Primula obconica
5 House plants in flower
Euphorbia pulcherrima Poinsettia
Impatiens
Solanum capsicastrum Winter cherry
Spathiphyllum Peace lily
Zygocactus truncatus Christmas cactus
6 Vegetables in season
Artichoke, Jerusalem
Broccoli, spring
Brussels sprouts
Cabbage
Carrots
Chicory
Leek
Onion
Parsnip
Radish, winter
Rhubarb
Salsify
Scorzonera
Swede
Turnip
Jo Hanslip January 2000
Revised January 2009
Next week we're doing Small Trees and Shrubs for Small Gardens, and for Autumn Colour.
Jo