The Color #9900FF (prozacnation) wrote in gordonramsay, @ 2008-01-26 13:53:00 |
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Ramsay Swears by Simplicity at Foxtrot Oscar: Richard Vines
Review by Richard Vines
Jan. 25 (Bloomberg) -- Gordon Ramsay gets such a kicking for his multiple television shows, his new career in advertising and his general shouty demeanor, it's easy to lose sight of the fact he's one of the best things that's ever happened in London dining.
Some of the most talented chefs, including Marcus Wareing at Petrus and Jason Atherton at Maze, rose through the ranks. Even if personality clashes and artistic differences mean that team Ramsay isn't always entirely harmonious, his group has fine restaurants.
Foxtrot Oscar, which reopened in Chelsea this week as part of Gordon Ramsay Holdings, features an accessible and enticing menu, good cooking, friendly service and the kind of buzz others might need chemicals to create. I'd have said go quickly before everyone discovers it, if it hadn't already been full on the third night.
The venue can accommodate up to 80 people, but that includes a basement area, and the dining room itself is small. The look is understated retro and the tables are jammed in, though not unpleasantly so. It's the intimacy that helps create the buzz, that and the host, or ``restaurant director'' as he's called.
Michael Proudlock created Foxtrot Oscar in 1980 as a smoky bistro that welcomed chefs, journalists and other roues. Some mourn the passing of such a hangout. I never went and can only say that on Wednesday night, with punters queuing to get in, and the actress and cakemaker Jane Asher squeezed in one table along, it was fun, and I was happy the smokers were out on the pavement.
Vigilant Ramsay
Proudlock works the room, resplendent in a pistachio sweater -- not to be confused with eau de nil -- kissing old friends and welcoming new customers. Ramsay himself was in this week. He was engaging when he came over to ask how the meal was, though it is interesting that even while chatting and making plenty of eye contact, he seems to be watching over everything that's happening.
The British bistro menu features three soups, including sweet corn with the most subtle of curry flavoring, and fish with aioli. The starter of chicken-liver parfait with toasted brioche is rich and bursting with flavor, while the wild boar and chestnut pate is well made. Other delights include a Dublin Bay prawn cocktail; potted shrimps with granary toast; and crab cakes with mayonnaise.
Bits of the menu feel like ``Now That's What I Call Ramsay.'' The specials include the veal-and-foie-gras burger that is such a hit at the Boxwood Cafe, and among the desserts is the sharp and creamy lemon posset -- served in a martini glass with shortbread on the side -- that features at the Devonshire. Hake and chips and mushy peas is a regular on the menu at the Narrow.
Toulouse Sausage
I would cross London for the burger. There's also a perfectly cooked whole lemon sole with shrimp butter, and tasty Toulouse sausage with mash. I'd have liked the soups a little more heavily seasoned and the service was hesitant on the first day, but no complaints otherwise. Some diners may find the portions rather generous. I consider that a good thing, though it will be interesting to see how that works when Ramsay starts enforcing time slots on diners.
The desserts include rum baba with vanilla Chantilly; creme brulee; and clotted-cream ice cream. What's not to like? Mark Sargeant, Ramsay's right-hand man, is credited as chef de cuisine, but the person at the stove is a 25-year-old woman, Gemma Tuley. It's striking that Ramsay now champions women in the kitchen.
The wine list is among the least greedy I have seen. The house red (Vin de Pays d'Oc, Bergerie de la Bastide, Languedoc- Roussillon,2006) is only 14 pounds ($27.50) and I've tasted a lot worse for a lot more. Vouvray Brut, Domaine Champalou champagne is 27 pounds. Coffee is served with notably good Turkish Delight.
So while I'm not uncritical of Ramsay, or of his flagship establishment near Foxtrot Oscar, he deserves recognition for creating modestly priced venues with well-prepared food, thoughtful menus and decent service. Next up is his third London pub, the Warrington in Maida Vale, which is finally scheduled to open on Feb.6. The upstairs restaurant will serve classic British dishes and a private dining area will accommodate as many 16.
Meanwhile, I'll be joining the Chelsea set at Foxtrot Oscar.
Foxtrot Oscar, 79 Royal Hospital Road, London, SW3 4HN. Tel. +44-20-7352-448 or click on http://www.gordonramsay.com .
The Bloomberg Questions
Cost? About 25 pounds a head plus wine.
Sound level? Can be lively/noisy.
Date place? Yah.
Inside tip? Aim for a corner table.
Special feature? Michael Proudlock.
Private rooms? Downstairs can be hired.
Will I be back? You bet.
Rating? ***
What the Stars Mean
**** Incomparable food, service, ambience.
*** First-class of its kind.
** Good, reliable.
* Fair.
(no stars) Poor.
(Richard Vines is London food critic for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)